1. Took apart the front stick grip and figured out how the stick was going to be mounted. The Infinity Aerospace instructions for their grips are voluminous and a tad psychotic, so you really have to study them carefully.
2. Clecoed the panel in place and took a measurement from the stick's pivot hole to the bottom of the instrument panel. This gave me a number I could work with to figure out where to cut the stick. My diagram said I should make the cut 10-1/2" from the pivot hole, which would give me about 1/2" clearance from the top of the stick to the panel. Many builders say you should wait to cut the stick until you have all the seat cushions that you'll be using, but I know for certain that I want my control stick to be as long as possible without hitting the panel -- and I definitely would never want it any shorter. So after marking the line, I committed and hack-sawed the tube to length, then filed the cut edge.
3. The grip manufacturer directs you cut a 1/2" wide slot, 1-1/4" long, into the back side of the stick. But first, I had to determine the grip's "clocking" so it will be comfortable to grip in a natural seating position. I played around with various positions, and finally determined that 28 degrees counterclockwise was a good number. So I drew a template, marked the tube, drilled a 1/2" starter hole, and cut out the slot. After working with aluminum for so long, I'd forgotten how hard steel is to work with. It's hard to drill, hard to cut with a Dremel tool, and hard to file.
4. Now it was time to cut the transverse mounting holes, which must be exactly 29/64" in diameter, and 90 degrees to the slot. I finally got to use my tube drilling jig, which has been sitting in my toolbox for years, just waiting for this moment to get clamped to my drill press. I stepped up the hole sizes, one drill bit at a time, and it worked well. Filed and dressed the holes.
5. Installed the grip onto to the stick. This is a pretty fiddly process. You have to get the 17 wires inside the grip to lay down in one half of the grip in some semblance of order before you carefully lay the other half down on it -- all the while trying not to dislodge the trigger switch and the trigger. Once you're sure no wires are getting pinched, you fasten the four allen screws and hope you'll never have to open it up again!
6. Once it was all closed up, I had to temporarily bolt it to the control column, just to see how it looked and felt. (It felt good!) I also fed the wire bundle through its spar hole and marked it for cutting to the appropriate length. (This wire bundle will eventually get a poly sheath over it,) I did notice that the distance from the top of the stick to the panel is actually about 3/4". Not sure how that happened, but I'm not too concerned about it.